The following article describes how to replace the fuel pump. Fuel pump failure can often happen gradually and cause the vehicle to run very poorly and sometimes stall, especially when going around corners. The following procedure should be done with caution as gasoline is flammable and very volatile, which can ignite from fumes even with the smallest spark sources.

Removal & replacement

1. Remove the back seat.

   

2. Remove the access cover

   

3. You need to relieve the fuel pressure in order to disconnect the fuel lines. You need to start the vehicle and either pull the fuse for the fuel pump or disconnect the fuel pump. It may take a few seconds, but the car will eventually sputter and die, relieving the system pressure. Others may suggest to trip the fuel cut-off switch, but the previous two methods are easier and if you use the improper tool to trip the cut-off switch, you could damage it.
4. Remove the negative cable from the battery.
5. Remove the fuel cap to relieve any pressure that may be from fumes in the tank.

   

6. Pull out the tabs and disconnect the fuel lines. Tie them back. Keep track of which one is which or you will have issues when you go to start the car again.

   

7. Clean the area around the locking ring.
8. Using a hammer and a non ferrous punch (aluminum, hardwood, copper, or anything non-sparking), undo the locking ring turning counter clockwise.
9. Remove the pump from the tank. Be careful to not allow any debris to fall into the tank. Removing it will require rotating it and tilting it to get the pump to clear the fuel level sending unit.

   

10. Changing the pump is quite simple once the strainer is off, which is hard to remove. Purchasing a new strainer along with the new pump may be a better alternative if the old one is dirty or damaged.
11. Disconnect the wires and replace with a new pump.

Pulsator modification

Follow the procedure below on how to modify the fuel pulsator if your car experiences the following:

• Sputters with less than 1/4 tank of fuel, but works fine any other time.
• A huge loss of power occurs or the car dies when taking highway ramps or while going on sharp corners.

As can be seen from the image below, the gray seal is not sealing too well. As the pump moves back and forth in the tank it distorts these seals causing fuel pressure to bleed down. Once it gets bad enough it will bleed enough pressure that you feel anything from a lack of power to a complete stall. As can be seen in the picture above, there is a zip tie wrapped around the fuel pump to restrain any excess movement. With the movement gone the car ran much better, but not as good as it could.

Upon visiting the auto parts store and attempting to find an easy replacement, a Carter part number was available, but the actual part was already discontinued. Ford only sells the entire sending unit. So instead a simpler solution was used, a hose. The pulsator acts as a vibration damper, basically an accumulator for the fuel system to help reduce shock loads on the pump. Seeing as how the fuel system is already equipped with a pressure regulator which also helps reduce shock, it is redundant and therefore replaced with a hose.

Picking the right hose is essential. In the picture, a yellow stripe can be seen on the tinge/coating of the hose. This signifies that it is wax impregnated fuel injection hose. The wax helps repel the gasoline and extend the rubber hoses life while in the tank. Regular rubber hose will degrade or go "skunky" after a few months when left submerged in fuel. This is 5/16" fuel injection hose rated at 65psi, more than enough for stock applications.

Installation

1. Installation is the reverse of removal.
2. Reconnect the sending unit.
3. Reconnect the harness.
4. Reconnect the fuel lines. When installing the lines make sure they click in place and pull back on them to make sure they have locked.
5. Reconnect the battery.
6. Reset the fuel cutout switch and take it for a drive without the access panel or rear seat in. This will give you a visual indication if the tank ring seal is leaking or not. If it's good and dry, with the car off disconnect the harness, re-install the cover and rear seat and your good to go. If it leaks, re-check the tank seal to ensure it is seated properly, it can be trying to put in. If everything appears fine, you may either need a new tank seal or new locking ring.

Also see

• Ford Escort & ZX2 section for the entire index of all Ford Escort and ZX2 related articles.