VW Jetta TDI intake manifold cleaning
Last Updated on July 22, 2024 by Mutiara
The procedures outlined in this article were performed on a 1999 Jetta TDI MK IV. Examine your engine, look at these photos and study the locations of the components you may need to move during this maintenance task. Read completely through this guide at least once prior to starting so you are not surprised, or left with questions in the middle of the job.
Tools
The following are pictures of all the tools used for this project, for reference.
- Water and towel-less hand cleaner (Use often, no need to put dirty finger prints everywhere).
- Magnetic parts bowl to hold the parts you remove
- Hammer to bash (GENTLY) heat shields with (a mechanics best friend)
- Prying tool (didn’t actually use this)
- Long regular head screwdriver to be used with the hammer
- Smaller and well (ab)used regular head screwdriver to use for scraping gunk with.
- Screwdriver with changeable heads
- Notepad and pen (so I could write this article)
- Flashlight
- Small adjustable wrench
- 10 open/box wrench
- 6 open/box wrench
- Small hook type tool to scrape gunk with
- Magnetic socket inserts (these can really help you prevent loosing bolts under the car)
- Magnet on a wand (a mechanics 2nd best friend)
- Inspection mirror (to find those pesky bolt holes behind the engine)
- Allen wrench set (metric) with the ball ends
- Allen wrench set (metric) on a 3/8 socket base
- 10 hex socket
- Water pump pliers (used these on some hose clamps)
- Hose pinching pliers
- Pliers (again for hose clamps)
- ¼ and 3/8 drive mini ratchet things
- ¼ and 3/8 drive socket extensions long and short
- ¼ and 3/8 drive universal joints
- ¼ and 3/8 ratchet wrenches
- 3/8 stubby/flex handle ratchet wrench (this WILL fit those tight places. Highly recommended!).
When lowering springs are not an option, coilover suspension seems the only logical choice. To avoid spending extra money on Read more
Building these beams is very labor intensive, hence a guide was made to allow others to make them. The first Read more
How to build your own type 2 dropped spindles. Here you can see the difference. The idea is to flip Read more
When lowering springs are not an option, coilover suspension seems the only logical choice. To avoid spending extra money on Read more
Building these beams is very labor intensive, hence a guide was made to allow others to make them. The first Read more
How to build your own type 2 dropped spindles. Here you can see the difference. The idea is to flip Read more
Procedure
- Begin by removing the Upper engine cover. Note the location of the items listed: 1. Fresh air intake from your air filter. 2. CCV unit. 3. EGR valve. 4. Anti shudder valve. 5. Air supply from intercooler. 6. Intake manifold.
- Disconnect the hose leading from the CCV to the fresh air intake. There is a small lip that seals it so pull hard.
- Remove the 2 metal clamps that hold the rubber hose from the Intercooler pipe to the EGR. Do not get excited and start scraping at crud out of the EGR at this time. If you loosen the crud now it may easily fall down the intake manifold and into a cylinder.
- Pull the rubber hose off the inlet to the turbocharger.
- Remove two #5 cap screws that attach the thing shown in the photo from the intake manifold.
- Pull the vacuum line off of the EGR. The clip may become damage, however the hose will probably stay put without it.
- Remove two #6 cap screws from the exhaust supply line leading from the exhaust cooler to the EGR. Don’t loose the thin metal gasket.
- Remove 3 #5 cap screws that hold the EGR to the intake manifold. The bolt in the 7 o’clock position is in a tight location due to a # 6 cap screw holding the exhaust line from the last step to the EGR itself. I was able to remove this bolt with a #6 ball end Allen wrench. Again, do not get excited and start scraping crud out of the intake manifold.
- Remove two #6 cap screws that attach the exhaust supply line to the exhaust cooler [G]. Again do not loose the gasket. Also disconnect the coolant hose [H]. Either clamp or raise this hose above the radiator level to prevent draining of radiator fluid.
- Clamp the lower coolant line going to the exhaust cooler. Now remove the smaller coolant hose attached to the top of the cooler.
- Remove three #10 hex bolts that hold the exhaust cooler to the intake manifold. Tie the exhaust cooler so it is up and out of your way.
- Remove six #6 cap screws that hold the intake manifold to the engine block. The 2nd bolt in from the left hit a heat shield on its way out. You may have to bend the heat shield a small amount by bashing it (gently) with a hammer and long tool such as a screwdriver or punch. Do not loose the gasket as you pull the intake manifold out.
- This is the intake manifold. Make note of where the six bolts are, as you will not be able to see them as you remove or replace them. I do not have my manual yet, but I would recommend the following pattern to tighten these bolts when reinstalling 531246. (That pattern may change as soon as I get my manual).
- The gunk I cleaned out of my EGR valve and intake manifold.Related PostsShortening struts
When lowering springs are not an option, coilover suspension seems the only logical choice. To avoid spending extra money on Read more
VW Bus & type 2 66-79 – narrowing the beam & welding adjusters for lowering frontBuilding these beams is very labor intensive, hence a guide was made to allow others to make them. The first Read more
VW Bus & type 2 67 or earlier – building dropped spindlesHow to build your own type 2 dropped spindles. Here you can see the difference. The idea is to flip Read more
- To clean out this gunk I scraped out as much as I could with hand tools, and a foot long piece of stiff wire. Once the big stuff was gone I used brake cleaner to help loosen the rest. The gunk came out easily as it was rather moist (think of the stuff in a day old coffee filter). If yours is very thick, or hard you may need to soak it overnight, or as some have suggested bring it to a glass bead machine.
