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This guide shows how to hook up fog lights on a ZX2 that didn't come with them. Using a stock turn signal switch with the fog light switch, this how-to shows you how to duplicate the fog light circuit, so it operates exactly the same as factory fogs lights.
The following document describes how I installed fog lights on my ZX2. The car did not come with fog lights from the factory. In my install, I mounted the lights at the centers of the outside crossbars of the grille. This method of mounting the lights gives it a more “stock” appearance, and, in my opinion, looks better than removing the outside bars of the grille, as is the case on a ZX2 with factory fogs.
I used a stock fog light switch out of a junkyard to turn the lights on. They are also wired the same as the factory lights would be, i.e. the lights come on when the low beams are on, and turn off when the high beams are switched on. Most inspection sites require that the fog lights work in this manner in order to pass inspection.
Preparation
The projector lights I purchased at Wal-Mart had a silver housing, and a chrome bezel around the lens (I will probably be upgrading these, no sense in spending a lot of money if they didn’t turn out well). To make the lights appear more "stock", I painted the housing and bezel to match the body. I disassembled the lenses and bulbs. Then I used a can of paint that I acquired that matched.
Mounting Lights
On the outside crossbars, drill a pilot hole in the center. Using a hole saw, carefully cut a "hole" out of the crossbars (I used a hole saw for mounting door locks on a house). The material is pretty easy to cut through, and you will probably cut all the way through 2 of the bars before you finish, so be careful not to twist the remaining bars. Using the light housing as a guide, carefully shave the ends until the housing just goes through.
Position the lights in place, and mark the spot on the bumper guard where the bracket will be attached. Drill a pilot hole, and mount the lights with the sheet metal screws included. There should be enough room to fully align each light.
Wiring
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Only 2 of these wires (B & C) will need to be run from the engine compartment into the interior. This is because I mounted the relay inside. If you mount the relay in the engine bay, you will only need to feed one wire through the firewall.
The best way to run the wires is to remove the drivers side wheel. Then, you can easily remove the inside wheel well. Once this is removed, you will see where the wiring harness goes through the firewall.
There are two wires that connect to the lights a black one and a white one. Feed the black wire up the front of the car and secure it to the frame. Now run the white wire up the front of the car, until it meets the hood release cable. Feed the wire into the fender, following the cable back to the firewall. Using a sharp knife, cut a slit in the "diaphram" that goes around the wiring harness. Cut the hole just enough for the wire connector to go through. Push the wire through the slit, and feed it into the inside of the car.
The red wire with the inline fuse holder should be connected to a constant power source. The easiest place I found was at the main fuse, inside the engine compartment. Open the fuse cover and loosen the bolt that holds the power wire to it. Put the spade connector behind the bolt and tighten. Be sure that either the fuse is removed from the holder, or the battery is disconnected before feeding the red wire through the firewall. Route the wire straight back past the battery, and into the hole in the fender. Then push the connector through the same slit that you made above.
If you are using a stock switch, you will need to install the switch and run the last two wires from the steering column. To install the switch, remove the 3 screws from the bottom of the column trim and remove the top and bottom covers. Remove the 2 screws from existing switch, and pull in away from the column (towards the driver door). Disconnect the wires noting where they are plugged in. On the new switch, there is a white wire attached to a white connector. This is the wire for the fog lights. Cut this wire near the connector. Install the new switch in the reverse order. Splice approx. 10” of wire to the end of the white wire, enough to extend it under the dash. From the headlight switch, you should find a red wire. This wire powers the left low beam headlamp. Follow this wire just below the dash and try to get as much slack as possible. Cut the wire, strip both sides and splice it back together. Attach a third wire to this splice (approx. 8”). This wire will supply 12V to the relay when the headlights are turned on.
OK, now to wire the relay. The relay should have 4 connectors, two for the coil and two for the switch contacts. The 2 wires coming from the engine compartment should be connected to the switch contacts of the relay. The remaining two wires (from the steering column) are attached to the coil side of the relay.
If you disconnected the battery ground cable, reconnect it now. Test your wiring, by turning on the headlights on low beam and turning on the fog lamp switch. Everything should be working. If not, make sure all the connections are correct, and that the fuse is in place and not blown. If the fog lights work, they should also turn off when you switch to high beams.
If everything checks out, mount the relay under the dash and tape all the connections, using electrical tape.
Also see
- Ford Escort & ZX2 section for the entire index of all Ford Escort and ZX2 related articles.