From Mechanical Database
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This swap gives great gains all throughout the powerband and is definitely a well-worth mod. Be sure to have a MAF adapter that fits our MAF. Solder all of your wiring. Don't half ass anything; you want this to work the first time. Make sure your fuel injector clamps are tight on the lines or you will leak and not be able to start the car! You want to have the intake set on long runners for this, or you'll have terrible driveability. I accomplished this with only a modified hose clamp. I used a file to cut a vertical groove in the hose clamp to grasp the DSIM clip and pull it towards the front of the car. Please route the hose from the brake booster directly to a port on the intake mani and cap off the nipple on the intake tubing. Basically, you're deleting the 4-way check valve altogether because it causes an extremely firm brake pedal, which makes it VERY hard to stop. Snag a real brake cable 'stop' off a bicycle that basically uses a screw as a clamping force. You'll also need a washer or two. I'll have pics of this later so everyone gets a good idea.
Procedure
- Remove the fuel pump fuse and run the car til it dies.
- Put fuse back.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- You'll need to drain the coolant.
- Remove the intake & airbox assembly. I suggest removing the MAF at this time.
- Disconnect the throttle cable and remove the throttle body.
- Remove the fuel rail & injectors.
- Remove passenger side heater hose.
- Remove intake manifold assembly.
- Cut and modify new heater hose to fit without making contact with SVT intake manifold.
- Zip tie new hose to power steering line and another spot to keep the serpentine belt from making contact.
- Install new lower manifold and torque to spec 12-15lbs/ft
- Install stock injectors into SVT fuel rail.
- Bolt fuel rail onto lower manifold.
- Install fuel hose onto fuel rail and make a U-shape with hose down to fuel filter. Clamp down with monster truck force.
- Install brake booster clip and hose onto upper manifold.
- Install ZX2 IAC onto upper manifold.
- Install upper manifold onto the lower manifold and tighten worm gear clamps on the couplers.
- Modify SVT throttle bracket to fit zx2 throttle cable snap thingy. (this is where the dremel tool comes in)
- Snap the throttle cable snap into the bracket.
- Screw the bracket onto the manifold.
- Apply electrical tape to the throttle cable (more is better) and use the dremel tool to make your cut.
- File down outer piece on the SVT throttle body to fit the cruise control clip.
- Cut cruise clip and throttle cable snap thingy until you can achieve wide open throttle.
- Use your throttle cable stop at the correct spot on the cable and then apply a nice helping of JB Weld onto the stop.
- Plug in injector clips and lengthen Fuel Pressure Sensor wiring as needed.
- Install new TPS plug for SVT TB(which is a fuel pressure sensor plug) and wire accordingly. Wires should be 1-2-3 to 1-2-3.
- Lengthen IAC wires.
- Install vacuum hoses as needed:
- Fuel Pressure Sensor, Evap, Brake Booster, PCV is all I can remember. Cap off unnecessary ports.
- Make a gasket for the MAF adapter.
- Install new intake assembly w/MAF.
- Fill car with coolant.
- Install splash guards.
- Attach negative battery terminal.
There is a helpful video covering the swap at:
http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm257/the_underclassman/?action=view¤t=HPIM1719.flv
And more images to assist in the swap:
The article is provided courtesy of The_underclassman aka Brown from FordEscorts.com forums.
Also see
- Ford ZX2 cylinder head replacement
- Ford ZX2 specifications for all the proper torque settings and tolerances.
- Ford ZX2 SVTF head swap for more information on swapping SVT focus parts.
- Ford ZX2 timing belt replacement procedure
- Ford ZX2 timing belt replacement walkthrough
- Ford Escort & ZX2 section for the entire index of all Ford Escort and ZX2 related articles.