Requirements
10mm wrench and/or sockets 17mm wrench and/or sockets Vice grips or large pliers Adjustable crescent wrench 1 gl of straight green antifreeze 1 gl of distilled water Radiator Radiator cap (optional) Drain pain (optional)

Replacing the radiator on a 2nd or 3rd generation Ford Escort is a relatively simple and quick procedure, one that could be performed on the side of the road or in a parking lot if necessary. The following procedure and photographs were performed on a 1995 Ford Escort, however the same applies to the 3rd gen and the ZX2. Depending on condition and cost, sometimes the junkyard is a viable source of radiators, normally ranging in the $ 40-50 dollars for a used one. Some vehicles will have clean new looking radiators, which were obviously replaced not too long ago.

Procedure

1. Remove the hose running to the thermostat housing by the battery. If the clamps are still original, they will require vice grips or large pliers to remove.

   

2. Remove the two upper radiator mounts, each is held by 10 mm bolts or nuts.
3. Disconnect the radiator fan, and remove the fan assembly. It is held by three 10 mm bolts. The top is extremely easy to get to, however the bottom sometimes require a 1/4 drive ratchet, air ratchet, or another unique combination of tools to reach. The following image shows the fan assembly removed, revealing all of the mounting holes.

   

4. Once the fan is removed, this will give you plenty of room to open the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. Sometimes these valves can crack. But if the radiator is being replaced it does not matter. While this step is optional, it is nicer to let it drain in a pain or away from the work area, rather than having all of the coolant pour out when disconnecting the lower radiator hose in the steps ahead.
5. Disconnect the radiator overflow tank hose. If your overflow tank is very dirty, or cracked, it can be disregarded without replacement. The purpose of the overflow tank is to temporarily store the expansion of coolant as the engine heats up, and then draw it back in when the engine cools down. If the tank is missing, the expanding coolant will exit the radiator for good, however the amount is usually small and will not create any overheating problems if it is missing. However, with time more and more coolant will evaporate and escape through the pressure cap, so the radiator level should be checked and maintained often.

   

6. Disconnect the lower coolant hose. This too requires vice grips, if the stock factory hose clamp is still used. Sometimes this can be a tedious task if the position of the clamp makes it inaccessible, and will require rotating the clamp by whatever means possible. If the step is not possible to carry out, cutting the hose can be a last resort. They are relatively inexpensive, and if the radiator is being obtained from the junkyard, another can be acquired for free in most cases (so long as it's in good condition).

   

7. Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding the transmission cooler lines to the radiator.

   

8. Disconnect the two transmission lines from the radiator by using a 17 mm wrench to loosen the bolts holding the banjo fittings. It's a good idea to use a large crescent wrench to turn against, rather than relying on the radiator's plastic side tanks to withstand the force. They are weak and susceptible to cracking and leaking. Some force may be required to loosen them.

   

9. Save the copper o-rings that are on the banjo fittings. If they are still stuck to the transmission lines then either remove them or keep an eye on them to make sure they don't fall out. There should be two for each line, one on each side of the fitting. If they are not reinstalled in the same way, the lines will leak!

   

10. Remove the radiator. The following picture below shows a replacement radiator acquired from the junkyard in decent condition. If using a used radiator, make sure to clean out the transmission cooler lines by whatever means possible, either by forcing transmission fluid through it, using carb cleaner to blast it out (and giving it some time to air out and dry), or the best and most popular way, by blasting it with air from a compressor. It's also a good idea to wash the insides of the radiator out with a garden hose. Getting a new radiator cap is recommended but not required. Also pay attention to the rubber mounts for the radiator, sometimes they will stick to the radiator and come out, and possibly get lost. They are required when reinstalling the radiator for it to sit properly. Sometimes brand new radiators come with the rubber mounts as well.

    

For installation, reduce the removal procedures. When the new radiator has been installed, continue to fill it as the car is run for the first time with it. As the system circulates coolant, and all the air is cleared out, and as the thermostat opens from the heat, a lot more room will be created to fill the cooling system completely. Do not forget this, or you'll be driving with low coolant and end up overheating the engine. If diluting new coolant, using distilled water is recommended as it will not contain the salts and minerals found in tap water, over time they can accelerate the corrosion of cooling system components.

Also see

• Ford Escort & ZX2 section for the entire index of all Ford Escort and ZX2 related articles.