When mentioning camber values, they are absolute, not relative to the front.

Negative rear camber will increase traction at the rear. This is why it will increase understeer. This is why club racers run 8-10 psi more air pressure in the rear than the front, to decrease traction at the rear and have good balance.

Running stock brake pads is recommended on a Neon. The material is Abex Q3T. Anything more aggressive will require warming to be effective. Anything less aggressive won't develop enough torque. It is the best choice for autocross as well as street use.

To evaluate toe on the front, what happens when the rear is toe out? The car oversteers. This is because the outside, more heavily loaded tire, the tire with the most influence on cornering, is pointing towards the outside of the corner. This steers the rear outward and brings the back end out relative to the front. Using toe out on the front, steers the front towards the outside of the corner. This creates understeer, which is far from desired. Some people use toe out whether they think it or not to stabilize the car (understeer). In autocrossing, the car is usually never completely steady state, and the understeer at the front makes it more forgiving. If people run toe out at the rear, this destabilizes the car. Then they dial in front toe out too, whether they think it or not, compensate for the instability. It is not recommended to run any toe out at the rear of the Neon either. It has a fair amount of dynamic toe out due to bearing and bushing compliance. Static toe out ends up giving too much dynamically.

Another reason for not running toe out on the front of a Neon is toe compliance from acceleration. The neon has a negative scrub radius in the front geometry. This means that the center of the contact patch is inboard of the center of steering rotation. Altering the offset of the wheels from 40mm, by the way, screws this all up. Under acceleration, the front wheels of a Neon toe out. Running static toe to my settings then provides 0 toe dynamically under full throttle at peak torque in 3rd gear, minimizing scrub and optimizing speed on the straights. Another reason for running toe in is that it is not uncommon for the camber to slip in the positive direction at the clevice bracket due to cornering loads (make sure the clevice bolts are torqued to 150 ft-lbs). When the camber setting goes positive, your toe goes out. This can be observed by removing the wheel and examining the suspension. If this happens at an event when alignment can't be reset, the end result will be more toe out than originally set. So if the vehicle started out toe out, it will get large amounts of toe out, however if it started toe in then it will go through toe 0 to some toe out as it slips. Anything more than 1/8" toe out per side significantly slows the car down on the straights, as has been tested.