An experienced user should be able to perform the procedure in about 30 min per corner. A novice can be expected to take 4-6 hours to complete the entire task.

1. Jack the car up and remove all wheels. Suspension should hang loose, so do not put jack stands under suspension components, only the subframe area.
2. Remove the three nuts on top of the spring perch in the front of the vehicle on each side.
3. Remove the brake line retaining clip from each strut.
4. Mark the strut to knuckle connector with a scribe, or at least some paint so that you can get the alignment back close enough to drive it to an alignment shop. If you are careful, you can get it back to current, and not have to worry too much about alignment other than slight toe adjustment.
5. Remove the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle. Remember that the adjsutment eccentric bolt goes in the bottom hole.
6. Pull the spring/strut assembly from the car.
7. Attach a spring compressor to top and bottom of the spring only, and compress tension into spring.
8. Using impact wrench, or other special tools, remove the large nut on top of the strut.
9. Pull spring off strut.
10. Reverse procedure to reinstall the new spring.
    • The strut to knuckle bolts should be torqued a minimum of 110 ft lbs for normal bolts and 150 ft lbs for crash bolts.
    • The rear procedure is the same as the front, with the exception of marking for alignment.
    • The rear upper strut mounting nuts are located in the trunk, at the top of the strut housing, under the trunk matting.