Adding Mopar swaybars takes about 1-3 hours depending on experience. The entire cost should be $125.00 +/- for parts, plus $60.00 +/- for additional parts if car has no front bar.

This procedure is intended to improve handling of street-driven Neons. A significant improvement in the corner of the Neon can be noticed due to a flatter cornering stance and reduced front end plow. The front sway bar has to be upgraded first prior to upgrading the rear to avoid creating oversteering under hard driving conditions. Autocrossers have their own opinions about this, however.

There are 3 different sets of struts for Neons: Base, Touring (Hilines and Sports) and Competition (very stiff - ACR). There are various OEM spring sets, but these vary more by equipment level than model to keep ride height consistent as weight changes. These are coupled with 3 different sway bar sets: Base (no swaybars), Touring (19mm front, no rear) and Competition (22mm front, 16mm rear). Note that Sport Sedans have the straight Touring suspension while Sport Coupes have the Touring struts and the Competition swaybars.

Procedure

Part #	Description	Qty	Price (USD)
4626777	Front sway bar 22mm	1	31.5
Required for base cars w/o front bar:
4626762	Bracket, FSB	2	2.42
6503292	Screw	2	1.21
6503937	Nut	2	1.61
4626368	Cushion, FSB (bushing)	2	5.00
4762137	Link package (contains clamps, bushings, links, washers etc.)	2	20.65
4626763	Rear sway bar 16mm	1	51.00
4626767	Cushion, RSB (bushing)	2	2.20
4626768	Bracket, RSB (right)	1	2.25
4626769	Bracket, RSB (left)	1	2.25
6502810	Screw/washer m12x1.5x40	2	0.85
4626766	Link, RSB	2	13.50
6502803	Screw/washer m10x1.5x55	4	1.10
6502696	Nut m10x1.5	2	0.95
4626764	Bracket, link (right)	1	3.60
4626 765	Bracket, link (left)	1	3.60

Tools required are 13mm, 15mm (x2), and 18mm wrenches.

Replacing the front bar.

1. Jack the vehicle up and place it on jack stands on jack points behind the front wheels.
2. Remove the nut from bar end links where they're attached to control arms. Note the assembly order of various bushings/washers, and back out long bolt. All bushings appear to be same but safest to put back in original order.
3. Remove the stamped steel clamps that retain the bar. One end of the clamps is bolted, and the other end inserted into the frame. They retain a split bushing which squeezes the bar.
4. Remove the bolts and the bar, noting which side is up.
5. Peel retainer bushing off of the old bar and place it in same position on new bar. The split goes toward front on front bar.
6. Put the bar in position (there are guide beads in frame member to align retainer bushings) with the retainer clamps loosely tightened so the bar is free to rotate.
7. Reassemble the link ends with all washers bushings spacers in the original order, and tighten to 21 ft/lbs (tight but not extremely) and leave retainers loose.
8. Lower the vehicle and go back beneath the car, tighten the retainers also to 21 ft/lbs.

Installing the rear bar.

1. Jack the vehicle up and place it on jack stands, remove the rear wheels.
2. Brackets (L/R are different) are a stamped plate w/ two bolt holes. Remove the nuts on te back of the rear knuckle at base of the strut, place the bracket over the studs, and replace the nuts.
3. Links look like barbell with captive bushing at each end. Bolt one end of link to bracket plate, tight but movable.
4. Pass the sway bar over the exhaust pipe (the offset in middle of the bar goes down to clear gas the tank) and bolt it to the other end of each link, moving them into place.
5. The bar is retained by a clamp/bushing similar to the front (holes and captive nuts are there already) except that this time split faces rear. The barbell links should be vertical with the sway bar at top end.
6. Tighten all the link bolts but leave the retainer clamps loose.
7. Reinstall both of the rear wheels and lower the vehicle.
8. With weight on the wheels, crawl under the vehicle and tighten the retainer bolts.